원정 개요

Having been on Talung before, had much better idea of weather patterns, which are injurious one with wind from Sikkim blowing snow horizontally in 3 routes climbed.

1) Otta and Cepelkova first acclimatized on NW Face. Started on 18th Oct and for 3 days in alpine style to 6600m on 20th, waited in tent at this point for wind to abate, and on 22nd and 23rd descended to BC. Did not go up again because no time left. Up in 2 bivs (at 5800m and 6200m) and down line east of ascent route in 1 biv (at 6200m).

2) Holecek and Rinn on 18th started late because Rinn had stomach trouble. Went up a couloir mixed rock and ice on right side of North Ridge/Pillar to 5850m and bived there. There Rinn discovered he had frostbite on 3 toes on both feet because had spent 2-1/2 to 3 hours belaying and 1 was black, standing in one place; so down to ABC on 20th. Very disappointed, they are excellent climbers.

3) Patek with Nankova 13 Oct up normal route on West Face to 6200m and 14 Oct to BC; had gone up only to acclimatize (Otta and Cepelkova had gone with them too to acclimatize). Patek with Cesenek 20th up normal West Face route for summit bid; went directly to normal C2 site at 6200m, slept there in biv and 21st up to 6250m-6300m when Cesenek, who had not gone on acclimatization climbing, got bad headache from altitude and he down to BC while Patek on up to 7000m just under Talung South Peak and down because late (4:00 pm) and down to 6200m tent and next day to BC. Climb finished.

Mountain more difficult than in 2002 because of deep snow and avalanching. Next day after Otta and Cepelkova had been on ascent routes on NW Face, avalanches came down both sides of route including falling seracs and also now crevasses were hidden by deep snow.

"The Pillar (North Pillar) is so beautiful its should be climbed" says Cepelkova.