원정 개요

BC south of moraine on scree north of the mountain
C1 on moraine between 2 small glaciers
C2 by 3 members.

From C2 gentle slope but its snow like a seascape and not good for skiing but used skis to 100m below top, where all ice above; so skiers took off skis at 7140m and by camps. As to top -28 degrees and windy weather; from C3 at 6:00 pm and on top at 1:30 pm. Descended slowly is very bad visibility and returned to C3 at 4:00 pm and here Bermejo stopped in C3 with Eizaguirre and Larranaga while other 3 down to C1.

Eizaguirre and Larranaga up to C3 from C2 on 24th and midnight of 24/25 Oct started for top on snowshoes and at 8:30 am 25th on top; used snowshows all the way. At midnight no clouds and little wind and same condition on summit. Down to C2 at 3:00 pm for Larranaga and 4 pm for Eizaguirre. Eizaguirre and Larranaga had stayed for days at C3 instead of going down and up again, so both have ten frostbitten fingers and frostbitten toes; also because many times needed to adjust snowshoes and therefore took off boots and gloves (6 had previously been to 6800m in Peru but Eizaguirre only to 3000m on mountain).