원정 개요

BC at Thengpo
Biv on North Face (rock pillar).

From 10th Oct started fixing route and taking up equipment below making biv and sleeping on face. 18th tried to fix more ropes higher but on small ledge hip-deep snow and every crack in the face had snow but really impossible to put pitons at every crack. Climbed 100m higher and then abandoned attempt to climb higher. Had had big snowfall on 15th and avalanches were coming down while were on face fixing rope and taking gear up; lost one bag of gear but no one hurt. Route was in middle of North Face on big rock pillar direct to top and climbed about quarter of rock ridge which leads to a 300m snow ridge to summit.

Then all three members went to small peak north northwest of Tengkangpoche on opposite of valley: Point 6180m on Schnieder Khumbu map; local name is Pahamlahaka. Climbed SE Ridge to 6100m, not to top because "not interesting" flat snow; down East Ridge. At high point on 21st Oct with one biv on way up and another down.