원정 개요

A lot of snow on mountain and dangerous avalanches. Needed to replace ropes and didn't bring enough rope. When truck got to BC had only 3000m of rope but a trekking agent said over 4000m there; then yak men apparently stole 1200m rope, down jacket and 1 oxygen bottle.

One Sherpa almost killed by avalanche: Lhakpa (sirdar) was hit by some snow from avalanche caused by Sherpas above him pulling out old rope, about 7 Sept. Only one member and no Sherpas slept in C2. Sherpas refused to go higher because snow too deep and avalanche too dangerous; all had summited Everest but never in autumn and said mountain never summited in autumn. Trekking agent suggested yesterday they wanted more money. Kikstra slept alone at C2 after Sherpas pitched camp but refused to sleep there; said they would go to C1 to sleep and come up to C2 on 18th and go up to pitch C3 at 7700m or higher but instead descended to ABC because were too tired, they claimed. On 19th they went very fast to clear C2 and C1.

De Jong, Kikstra and Arens only members to C1. 2 members never went above ABC: Streefkerk got lung problem at ABC and left expedition 15 Sept. Thyssen also left 15 Sept because the mountain was too much for him.

Sherpas were:
Sirdar Lhakpa Sherpa, Okhaldhunga, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
Nima Dorje, aka Bhoka Lama, Makalu, Everest X3
Pemba