원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 slightly below South Col.

5th Oct 1st attack by Mitani, H Ohnishi, Yamamoto and 2 Sherpas reached 8200m when hit by avalanche from SW Face: Ang Phurba not hit and pulled out Mitani, Yamamoto and Nawang Thile with Ohnishi, and all Ok.

2nd attack 7th Oct from col by Kurataki, Futamata, Nakanishi, Moti Lal Gurung and Tshering Dorje to 8210m and again avalanche and very strong wind.

3rd attack from BC 10th in C2, 11th to C3, 12th to C4 and started from col 13th at 2 am in full moonlight and reached top 12:30 pm. Mitani first, Lobsang, Chuldin Dorje, H Ohnishi and Yamamoto in that order; on top only few minutes because of strong wind. Japanese party was before Koreans and Mexican last. Returned to C2 same day.

4th attack 15th Oct from col without oxygen by Ando, Takahashi and Hori and then defeated by wind and down to C2. Now (15th Oct) climbing finished.

Avalanches hit both times at 4:00-4:30 am.

Lobsang's actual name is Tchiring Thebe Lama.

This was Mitani's 6th Everest expedition, 1st success on Everest.