원정 개요

BC at high normal BC Site
C1 at top of rock band that forms buttress on North Ridge
C2 at farther up North Ridge
C3 at top of North Ridge where meets West Ridge
High point at West Ridge.

1st summit team in C3 had winds 35 mph with gusts to 65-70 mph. They stayed in C3 4 nights waiting for winds to drop, then descended on 15th. 2nd team arrived C3 14th, rested 15th and 16th Wilson from 1st team and John started up West Ridge. Wilson reached just under 21,000 ft, stopped when not feeling well, while John on up to 21,000 ft and decided had found suitable site for C4 on this very long ridge. Wilson and John slept in C3 planning to pitch C4 next day and go for top on 18th. But 17th morning clouds moved in from south and headed down to BC where snowed that night. Decided to abandoned climb that morning and took tents down since were running out of fuel and food. Had ordered porters for 21st as fixed time to leave mountain. Left BC morning of 19th in 2 ft of snow and snowing so hard some members lost track. Avalanche hit John (not hurt) and another member and cook staff and from there on out was a fight to get out through waist-deep snow and white out.

4 left BC 2 days ahead of the rest in hurry to get home.