원정 개요

21 Sept Cook to 7100m and return C1, tired; 22 to ABC. 22nd Cook now having period breathing problems so consulted Jorge Egocheaga, the Spanish doctor, who gave him drugs which took a course of 4 days. 25th Cook decided no more climbing and stayed in ABC and asked Sherpas to carry to top and nail clippings of his father. 25th Sherpas ABC to C2 and 26th on top; left C2 midnight NST and on top at top at 4:30 am, waited half four for daylight and saw Everest, down to ABC at 3:00 pm, clearing camps on the way down. 25th Cook unsteady on foot; on 26th went with oxygen and into convulsions and became unconscious evening 26th. 6:00 am Lhakpa realized he wasn't waking up and Egocheaga called to Cook's tent, gave more drugs. 8:00 am 2 yaks, 5 porters and French climber and 2 Sherpas evacuated him, but later 2 Spanish doctors came and gave injection, got to Jeep 5:30 pm and 1:00 am to Zangmu; crossed border but now Maoist general strike; now Cook conscious and found Australian embassy's telephone number and called KTM and helicopter within one hour picked him up brought to KTM to CIWEC clinic.

Oxygen:

Sherpas none.

Cook: from C1 to 7100m 21 Sept; 26th Sept from ABC to Zangmu on oxygen constantly, then supply running low so from Zangmu to KTM only intermittently and even to 4th Oct in KTM. In KTM 4 Oct using stick to keep his balance.

Sherpa summiters:
Lhakpa Dorje, 1960, Sanam, Everest X1, Makalu X3, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1
Chongba Nurbu, 1962, Tate, Chaurikharka, Everest X3