원정 개요

Atushi Iharra - 11 March 1988

4 members, but wife BC only - reached 7700m.
New route avoiding N Col's strong wind via a couloir to NE Ridge; his highest point was where couloir reached ridge. Climb start of Nov through Feb 28.


Isono, Japanese, etc. - 27 Feb 1988

Hasegawa tried and still attempting till end Feb to solo N Face. Went to mountain last Nov. Route probably Japanese-Hornbein Couloirs to get protection from winter wind.


Mrs. Okawara - 21 Feb 1988

Mrs. Okawara has heard that her friend Mr. Hasegawa has been leading a small expedition to N Side of Everest this winter and is still there, but she has no details. She believes some Sherpas are with the Japanese but doesn't know where. She does not expect members to come to KTM.


US Everest North, Jamieson/Matoos - 19 Oct 1987

Japanese to unclimbed N Ridge arrived BC 16th Oct and started climb 1 Nov.
20 Japanese plus 15-18 Sherpas.

See AAJ 1989 account.

Hashegawa tries again Autumn 1989.

US Everest North, Winter 1987

Japanese unclimbed North Ridge arrived BC 16 Oct and start climb 1 Nov
20 Japanese and 15-16 Sherpas.

(From The American Alpine Journal 1989, pg 271, by Tsuneo Hasegawa)

Our expedition consisted of :
1. Masayoshi Utsumi
2. Kiyotaka Hoshino
3. Mrs. Masami Hasegawa (leader's wife)
4. Tsuneo Hasegawa, leader

As reported in AAJ 1988 on 273, we were prevented from getting to the mountain earlier by the big snowstorm in Oct. We were given permission to continue during the winter.

The route we attempted was a new one, which began east of the North Col. We climbed the northeast shoulder at about 7800m.

We established ABC-C2 at 6450m on Nov 24, 1987. From there we climbed to 7000, 7200, 7450m and 7500m on Dec 11, 19, 24 and 27, respectively. We established C3 at 7350m on Jan 20 and occupied in on Feb 7. On Feb 9, we climbed to 7700m.

We removed ABC on Feb 23 and BC on the 26th. During the mountaineering activity, the wind blew steadily from 150 to 200 kph. The tent at C3 was damaged by the falling rock and ice many times, since there was no safe tent site in the couloir.