원정 개요

BC at SSW of Ratna Chuli
ABC at moraine at bottom of glacier
C1 at big snow plateau
C2 at West Ridge.

Steep wall from C1 to C2 with seracs, crevasse, icefall; could not climb it directly to ridge but had traverse face to get around enormous crevasse. Sherpas said more difficult than West Face of Lhotse; fixed 800m from C1 to C2. To reach summit from C2 followed West Ridge and around 6600m peak and down to col at 6400m. Left C2 at 5:30 am and on top at 11:00 am (Eynac and Sherpa); all other members stopped 150m below summit because weather now bad with winds and snowfall and others members not very experienced climbers. All back to C2 for the night with members finding difficult to descend in such weather which made them worried. Returned to KTM by plains from Manang.