원정 개요

BC at new lake above Gorak Shep
ABC at bottom of rock couloir
C1 at bottom of SE Face.
High point at big crevasse.

Rented at Gorak Shep 4 ladders (2-4 metres each) for 8m crevasse on 4th and took to C2 on 5th April. Until now weather perfect but on 5th snowfall and on 6th and on 7th; all waiting in C1; on 8th weather very nice and 9th am weather Ok although clouds seen. On 8th Linz left because didn't like avalanche danger and [would be dangerous] for at least several days and no chance. On 9th carried ladders, fuel, etc to 6400m, needing to break trail in snow not yet settled (snow 25-45 cm deep). At 6400m Laviziano stepped into hidden crevasse up to lower chest. At 6410m very hard: requiring 2 ice tools and loose snow on ice slope so climb abandoned. 2-3 days needed for snow to settle and team had no time to wait so long.