원정 개요

C2 at above Makalu La.

Route between BC and C1 was more direct than normal line and enabled team to put C1 higher than usual by 100m. Very long route from C1 to C2. C3 occupied by Parker, Gangdal and Dawa Tshering, but at 3:00 am on 21st and Parker had no strength to go on up and only Gangdal and Dawa Tshering went for top. Left C3 at 3:45 am and reached top 9:15 am on beautiful morning, no wind but very cold in dark but in sun was quite warm; fine view of Everest and Kangchenjunga. Made a second variation of normal route by not going up couloir but up difficult rock ridge left of couloir for 200m on way to summit and went under false summit higher up. Went from summit to BC; returned to BC at 6:30 pm for Gangdal and 4:00 pm for Dawa Tshering.

Nezerka and Volden to C2 only, Voldmo not above 7100m. Parker stayed on mountain to make another summit bid.


Parker - 14 May

Australian Parker returned to KTM today. On 4 June he said Gangdal's objective was for only him to get to the summit and he didn't expect Parker to do so. Anyway Parker made a summit bid. Left BC on 4th May to C1 with cook. Stayed 2 days in C1 because strong wind. Down to BC on 6th because had stomach trouble and cook's climbing experience was limited and so abandoned climb. Parker doubts that Gangdal actually reached summit. Gangdal moved up to C3 very slowly and was extremely exhausted when he arrived at C3.