원정 개요

BC at Saktekang and North Glacier
C1 at East Ridge
Biv at SE Ridge
Biv at SE Ridge
Biv at SE Ridge
C1 on SE Ridge
Biv on at 7600m in eastern cwm.

From BC went to East Ridge (Japanese NE Ridge) up at 6100m on 2nd May; stopped because snowfall every day morning had to remake trail everyday. Back to BC on 3rd with all gear. All 4 high altitude, tents and all but 1 stove stolen from BC, so went over to SE Ridge via South Col 5600m high down into Nepal and joined British at C1. At 5700m and biv there on 8th May and biv at British C2 at 6700m. From here French helped fix ropes and established C3 at 7300m on 12 May.

Back to BC in Tibet in 14th because this had been acclimatization climb and to prepare for summit push. Waited for good weather forecast. Up from BC 22nd May to 5700m on SE Ridge (base of SE Ridge) while Graziani bived at 6100m next to British intermediate camp. Trommsdorff and Wagnon joined Graziani on 25th May at 6100m. 26th Wagnon to 6700m, 27th to C3 at 7300m, 28th to 7600m via ridge down into Eest (Cwm) and slept there at British C4. 29th Graziani to top at 4:30 pm CST (2:15 NST) (all left C4 at 8:35 am). Trommsdorff stopped 8100m because terrain above very steep and exposed and he was too tired to make safe return; Wagnon stopped at 8250m for same reasons (both also stopped because had had bad night, both wind storm and not proper tent). All slept in C4 that night. 30th to 6100m and found their food, gear, clothes and ropes above had been removed; slept there in poor tent and no food and drink. 31st up to beginning of rope left, took it down and used it to get down to C1 at 5700m, where deposit there including video camera stolen, saw no food and drink still. Down to BC, getting drinking water from stream and in BC at 9:00 pm Chinese time. Left BC 1 June.

This team's access to East Ridge new route and to C1 on East Ridge.