원정 개요

BC at Kangshung Glacier, west of Pethang Ringmo
ABC at Chomo Longo Glacier
C1 at top of north ridge on North Face of Kangchungtse
C2 at NW Ridge of Kangchungtse
High point at NW Ridge.

29th to BC to rest: from ABC 14th May to C2. 18th up Kangchungtse NW Ridge and then over onto its North Face and biv on face at 7400m. 16th up North Face to Kangchungtse at 2:00 pm and then to Makalu La plateau and biv at 7450m. 17th crossed plateau to Makalu La and biv at La at 7400m. At midnight started normal route for top but too tired so stopped at 7700m at 2:00 am of 18th, fingers and toes cold; so returned to biv at La.

Route on Kangchungtse not dangerous, very technical, but "beautiful" route. Technically more difficult than Bonington route on Annapurna I South Face; most difficult solo climb he was ever made, that night descended normal route of Makalu to high Makalu BC at 11:00 am of 18th and slept there. 19th down to Barun Glacier and at 5600m. Traversed east and northeast along high side of Barun Glacier to ridge running northeast to point 6140m Schneider Khumbu map and traversed northwest side of his ridge, crossed big flat glacier and crossed back into Tibet via point 6400m north-northwest of Chago down from pass on broken, steep, bad rock and back to ABC and slept there. 20th to BC.