원정 개요

BC at Tangmar
ABC at site of same high base camp
C1 at Chago glacier's large left branch at bottom
C2 at above Makalu La.

From C1, climbed up glacier to NW Ridge, which they reached above Makalu La, then down to ABC to rest. 17 May, all 4 members and all 4 Sherpas left ABC for summit push and slept in C1. 18th to C2. 19th at 7:00 pm all left C2 for top. On 20th Fernandez and Dawa Chhiri reached summit at 10:00 am and down to C2 at about 9:00 pm. Lhakpa Sherpa stopped 40m below summit; Orvis, 2 Mexicans, Fura Dorje and Dayalu Sherpa stopped at a peak 10m below highest peak, a point they BC at reached at 12:30 pm. From this lower peak to highest one then was an extremely narrow ridge which only one person at a time could cross. Orvis asked Mexicans to wait here while he summited and returned to them and they did; they could follow then, but Orvis was very slow because he was not using any oxygen; he reached summit at 1:30 pm, so Mexicans now abandoned their plan to go to highest peak and all descended together down to snowfield at 8200m, which they reached as it got dark. Mexicans made unprepared biv here while the three Sherpas (Dayala, Fura Dorje and Lhakpa) continued down to C2. There was wind and snowfall all right and Lopez's toes became badly frostbitten. They left biv at 5:00 am on 21st, rested for 2 hours, all down to ABC at 10:00 pm. Left ABC 22nd to BC.

Helicopter evacuated Lopez from village 2 days walk from BC on 26th; Maoists would not permit helicopter to land higher.

Oxygene:
Orvis never used it
Fernandez in C2 to top and in C2
Both Mexicans in C2 to lower peak to 8000m, where it ran out
4 Sherpas from C2 to their high points to C2.

Sherpas:
Lhakpa Sherpa, Makalu, 38 years old
Fura Dorje, Sotang, Everest X5, Lhotse 20/5/03
Dayalu Sherpa, Sotang, 31 years old