원정 개요

BC at bottom of icefall
C1 at top of step hard ice
C2 at middle of main Chago Glacier
C3 at Makalu La
C4 slightly raised section of Makalu La.

From BC climbed the right (west) branch of Chago Glacier and put C1 on this glacier. Louis went to C1 and C2; on 20th down to BC and stopped his attempt because of loss of energy while Kerr up to C3 with 3 Sherpas. Then to BC rest for 3 days but had to stay 5 days because of strong wind high on mountain.

4th May ABC to C2. 5th May to C3 but food tents destroyed so down to BC again. 7th May again to C2. 8th to C3 and pitching 2 new tents there. 9th made C4. 10th Kerr and 3 Sherpas left C4 at 3:00 am. Weather good but winds had blown much snow cover off of rocks so had to cross rock sections with crampons on. 2:00 pm on top in very strong wind but clear weather till near summit when nearly white out coming and going. In descent used 2 ice tools to keep from being blown off. At C4 site tent and contents gone in the wind, so using headlamps got to C3 without sleeping bags, back in C3 tent 8:30 pm. All to BC on 11th May.

Oxygen: Kerr and 3 Sherpas sleeping in C2 and from top to C3.

Summit Sherpas:
Lhakpa Dorje, Sanam, Solu, Makalu X2, Lhotse X1, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
Lhakpa Tenzing, Sanam, Solu, 21/12/70, brother of Lhakpa Dorje, 1st 8000er
Chhepi (Chumbi) Bhote, Makalu area, Hatiya VDC, 30/9/74, 1st 8000er