원정 개요

BC at east side of Barun Pokhari
C1 ESE of Barun Pokhari on ridge
C2 on same ridge
C3 on col north of Pt 6682m [incorrectly called Peak 3 on some maps]
C4 at small notch on SE Ridge.

From BC did not go up ice fall ENE of Barun Pokhari, but went ESE of the lake to a ridge running NNE over point 6260m and over Pt 6682m (Pt 6825m on Schneider Khumbu map). C1 was on ridge SSW of point 6260m. Then followed ridge over top of Pt 6682m to Col north of of it at start of SE Ridge. From Col traversed on South Face below ridge because SE Ridge extremely narrow above Col. Then went to SE Ridge at 7300m, where placed C4 on 9th May. Fixed 300m ropes about C4 10-12 May and down to BC to rest and wait for better weather, which had become bad with continuously daily snowfall. Back at BC 13 May.

18th May 3 members went back up to go to C4 (Scott, Muddiman, Gale and Nima and Pema Sherpa): to C1, 19th to C2, 20th to C3, 21st and 22nd tried to go to C4 but get no higher than 7000m because of dangerous avalanching (snow) on South Face across their line of traverse; downward climb on 24th because now running out of time; Scott on 24th down to BC, others stayed at C3 and later stripped all gear. Pema went up to bring down C4 on 28th.

Fixed ropes from C1 to Pt 6682m and on up to 7500m on ridge going up from Pt 6682m.
40-5/mph winds - not scary climb.

High points of members (not already given over):
Berryman - C3
Boyce - c6600m
Burrell - C3
MacDonald - 7200m
MacInnes - C4
Marshall - C4
Mellor - C3
Singleton - 7200m
Tait - C3
Venables - Pt 6682 summit

Pt 6682m [Peak 3] ascents:

All members except Boyce and both Sherpas summited via South Ridge on 4 May and in following days as they moved up and down their Makalu route to its SE Ridge. This was same route on Pt 6682m followed by Doug Scott's Makalu expedition in spring 1984.


Taken from British Services Makalu Expedition 2004 - Expedition Report

From the outset the selection of Makalu and Baruntse as objectives meant that both teams would be facing challenges of the very highest order. Reaching their respective summits was always going to provide a very significant test, with the weather and conditions on the mountain naturally playing a major part. Underpinning our preparation was detailed planning thorough training and success in sourching the necessary quantity and quality of food and equipment for the task.

An ascent of Makalu, particularly the South East Ridge, continues to be one of the true great challenges of Himalayan mountaineering. Frustratingly, from the outset, the dangerous condition of the icefall added to the difficulty of our task by forcing us on to the longer route over Peak 3 [Pt 6682m]. Hampered by extremely strong winds and frequent heavy snowfall alone on the South-East Ridge with no other teams to kick the steps and no line of fixed rope from previous expeditions instead battering us with more wind and snow. To have reached the summit we would have needed a deal of luck but not to have had the opportunity to try was immensely frustrating.