원정 개요

BC just above junctions of Barun and Chago Glacier
C1 at just below point 5180m on Schneider map
C2 at West Pillar
C3 at West Pillar
C4 at top of Pillar.

First summit party had tried to go to top on 15th. Brodsky, Molgachev and Rychkov and reached 8300m and turned back there at 4:30 pm (had left C4 at 6:00 am) because now too late and windy; back to C4.

2nd party, Sieger and Terzyul, left C4 at 6:00 am on 17th and on top at 7:30 pm (Ilyinski in BC saw them on top through telescope, in setting sun's light). After they reached summit, fog covered them and no longer seen and next day, Ilyinski saw Sieger come down to about 8300m and sit down 9:30 am, then Ilinisky stopped watching for 5 minutes and saw no one moving but saw red object, which was Sieger's body; Terzyul never seen again.

Next summit party left C4, Zhumayev and Pivtsov at 0:10 am of 20th May and both on and up at 9:48 am and saw Sieger's body at 8300m where they were ascending and descending. Body was upside down with right arm extending up but head headed downwards amongst large rocks: impossible to move body. Returned to C4 at 6:00 pm.

4 members made next attempt on 21 May from BC, Brodsky and Rudukov turned back at C2 from fatigue while Molgachev and Richkov continued up, reached C4 on 24 May, 11:45 am up from C4 for top but snowfalling and stopped at 8000m; windy and very cold and back to BC same day and now climb finished.


Marty Schmidt - 3 June 2010

The 2010 Ukranian team found Jay Sieger's body hanging from a rope at 7800m.