원정 개요

BC at Yalung Glacier, 1 km WNE of Ramche village
ABC at east side of Yalung Glacier, WNW of Rothang and bottom of Kabru IV
C1 at plateau top of vertical wall
High point at near top of icefall.

Fixed 820m from ABC to C1 up nearly vertical (85 degrees) rock wall to plateau, where C1 placed. Above C1 big icefall which was very steep; almost climbed up of icefall when at 5950m leader fell into crevasse; fell 3-4m into crevasse, dislocated right shoulder and climb finished. Ivackovic was with him and managed to help him out of crevasse by pulling him down further into crevasse to place where sleeping wall was possible for him to climb up and out. Slept one night in C1, where decided since it was leader and he was the most experienced member, attempt should not continue. Plan to come next year spring on this "very nice" and difficult route" of 2800 vertical meters. No easier route from Nepal side. Know route problems and saw needed more rope and other gear for very technical route.