원정 개요

Previous BC just below Langmo La - from there mtn, Karma Valley
Main BC at Kangshung Glacier moraine
ABC at middle of Kangshung Glacier, due east of US 1983 BC
C1 on southern-most buttress of E Face
C2 below huge bergschrund on buttress
C3 at S Col (really just below it).

Upper slopes of "Neverest Buttress" actually quite safe but lower part close to avalanche danger. Other part of face huge serac bands that fell off and powder snow avalanches. Took 21 days to get to BC with snow too deep for yaks and daily heavy snowfall. Had to get porters to get transport loads. They went to ABC, climbed buttress to 40 ft wide and 100 ft deep glacier which took difficult technical climbing to overcome. Fixed 4000 ft of rope from bottom of buttress to where it eases off at about 22,000 ft or so. Again weather turned bad. Made one carry of loads to 24,500 ft on 1 May and then to ABC while snowed.

Arrived for summit bid 5th May but weather of 2-3 May snow brought big avalanches; so summit push by all 4 members on 8th May from ABC. 9th knee-deep snow from C1 to C2 took 14 hrs. 10th May 11-hour haul from C2, which they picked up and carried to South Col, where pitched tent (did not see Japanese-Chinese-Nepal tents in their hurry to pitch it and get out of wind). 11th 3 stayed at Col because of wind while Teare developing altitude sickness so down to ABC (in 7 hours). Eve of 11th winds abated so 3 set out from Col at 11:00 pm. Venables to top 3:40 pm 12th; other 2 were behind him and turned back at or very near S Summit in deteriorating weather. Webster and Anderson slept that night in Japanese tent at C5 of Japan-China-Nepal expedition while Venables spent night at 8500m on slope below S Summit because couldn't find way down in misty weather. Venables caught up with others at Japanese tent and all there to S Col together where stayed remainder of 13th resting and slept there that night, which shouldn't have done because of altitude. Very slow descent. 14th to C1 in afternoon. 15th tried to go down in afternoon but snowed and had to return to C2. 16th managed to get started at 11:00 am and to ABC at 4:00 pm (Webster and Venables) while Anderson couldn't find route and spent night out at 22,500 ft and down to ABC about 8:00 pm on 18th with the help from bottom of buttress by photographer.

Accidents and Injuries:
Anderson's frostbite one big toe and same fingers which probably will heal.
Venables 5 toes which could lose tips of (nose frostbitten but is healing).
Webster's 5 toes and 5 fingers; will probably loose 1st digits of fingers.

When Venables set off from South Col, he knew toes were getting numb and took conscious decision to go on up anyway.

Support team:
Mimi Zieman, medical student from NY, 25 years old
Joe Blackburn, photographer, 42 from New Canaan, Conn
Came as high as ABC

Buttress starts at about 18,000 ft and merges into face at about 24,500 ft.


Ang Kami - 23 May

12 May some 4-5 people coming down from S Summit at 6:00-7:00 am towards S Col. Did not meet them (he had been at Col for 3 days and wanted to go down) but is sure they went to Col. Had expected them to descend normal route but they did not.


Isono 1-8 May

10 May Nepalese met Americans on SE Ridge below S Summit. Americans very tired, but oxygen regulators to them, and Americans opportunity down from South Summit and slept at S Col - Ang Karma reported this.


Webster - 25 Feb 88

Norbu Tenzing Norgay, son of Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, visited BC area about 12-20 May as member of trekking group of half dozen people; is not a technical climber and will do no climbing, go no higher than ABC. Indian, aged 24, single member of Lindblad Travel staff on promotional side lives in Westport, Conn.

* 1 Nepali and 1 Sherpa above BC