원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

27 April Huygh, Troch, Pasang Tharke and Pemba Tshering from C2 to go to C3, but got no higher than 6700m just before face begins but fear of avalanching made Huygh decide too dangerous to continue up so back to C2; back to BC 28th for Huygh and BC by Troch on 29th. Huygh on 29th to rest alone and returned 9th May.

13th May Huygh, Troch, Pasang Tharke, Pasang Tshering, Tshering Thurdu, Pemba Tshering left C4 8:45 pm 16th. Huygh on top on 17th May at 8:33 am, Troch 8:35 am: Pasang Tshering, Tshering Thurdu, Pasang Tharke with Troch; spent 35-40 minutes on top snowy and cold. Troch's fingers and toes badly frostbitten. Huygh at 2 Sherpas in C4 at 5:45 pm. Pasang Tharke with Troch lost Troch at about 2:00 pm: weather windy and snowfall and white out. Pasang Tharke alone to C4 while Troch with US climber Bill Zachary got lost together unable to find route. Sherpas out its search for them, but found Zarachy only. Sherpas back again and found Troch at 9:00 pm. Troch has no recollection; when Sherpas found him Troch said he waited to sleep where he was on hard ice just above Col. 19th Huygh in BC, 20th Troch in BC. Tshering Thundu got snowblind on 17th in descent.

Oxygen:
Sherpas: from C4 to top only
Huygh: from C3 to C4, from C4 to top to C4; from C4 to C3 on 18th
Troch: from C3 to C4, in C4, from C4 to top: in descent from top

Troch's oxygen ran out at about 2:00 pm at about 8400m and thought his Sherpa had no oxygen but other Sherpas also from third agency, Asian Trekking, offered oxygen to him but Troch refused it; resumed using oxygen only when he returned to C4 about 9:45 pm and Huygh gave it to him. Troch did not use it going down from C4 becauses he had trouble seeing the way down with an oxygen mask on.

Summit Sherpas:
Pasang Tshering, 21/5/74, Pangboche, Everest X1
Tshering Thundu, 4/10/74, Khumjung, 1st 8000er
Pemba Tshering, 1965, Pangboche, Lhotse 5/03, Everest 5/03
Pasang Tharke, 1971, Pangboche, Xixa