원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 at West Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

Were delayed going up to C1 because had to wait for pujas at BC; Lama arrived for puja on 22nd April.

Arrived at C4 on 16th and 17th rested at C4. Left C4 for top 8:00 pm of 17th and on top about 10:00 am of 18th; Dorje first, Lisa 2nd, Antezana and Mingma together last but only 10 minutes after Dorje. Stopped on top half an hour and started down about 10:30 am all 4 together. Dorje led descent of Hillary Step and waited at the bottom; Lisi joined him and Dorje down 20m, Lisi joined him; waited for Mingma and Antezana cross ridge to South Summit and Lisi went with them to South summit; 4 together on down together with 2 Sherpas giving Antezana help, one on each side of him; down to about balcony and Lisi says to balcony at 8400-8500m (but Sherpas to Benegas say to 50m above balcony). Lisi went ahead 20-40m and to balcony first and waited 30-40 minutes for other 3 who were increasing slow descending from South Summit; then down alone and stopped at "triangle" about 8300m and decided to biv there in his biv sack and go to sleep there; 2 Sherpas joined him at "triangle" about 7:00 pm without Antezana. Sherpas said Antezana was unconscious above balcony on Tibetan side so Sherpas put him with down jacket and left him there. Lisi & 2 Sherpas down; Sherpas went ahead, Lisi fell in icy sections above Col and got buried and lost head lamp so shouted for help and Irish expedition Sherpa went up to help him down to Col. Lisi to C2 to sleep on 19th BC 20th.

Oxygen: Antezana in C4 to top and in descent; Lisi in C4 to top and down to South Summit when supply ran out; Sherpas from C4 to top and down to C4.


Pat Falvey, leader of Irish team - 26/5/2004

Falvey's Sherpas helped Lisi down Geneva Spur because he was very weak and Lisi's Sherpas extremely tired. Falvey gave him oxygen and he used during part of his descent from C4 to C3.

Falvey himself saw Lisi's members and Sherpas at 10:00 pm on 17th as they were going up the Triangle, and saw one of them, almost certainly Antezana, very insecure on his feet and moving very slowly. Falvey saw him again at 8:30 am on the 18th as Falvey was descending; Antezana was going up to South Summit, which had no snow or ice covering it and very therefore very difficult for inexperienced climber to negotiated with crampons on. Falvey's Sherpas were told by Antezana's Sherpas that he had grabbed the leg of someone descending, asking for help.

Antezana's daughter told Falvey in KTM on 26 May that her father had taken $5000 for each Sherpas to get and promised $15,000 bonus to Lisi and $5000 for each Sherpas to get him to the summit and down again; this $25,000 is missing.