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Dream Everest Expedition

Everest · 2004 · 봄 (1) · Greece

원정 개요

C1 at 5950m at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

27 Apr to C2. BC to Pheriche 29 Apr, rested 4 days then to BC 5 May waiting for good weather 11th into Icefall. 12th May rest 13th to C2, 14th-15th C3, 16th C4. Left C4 16th 9:00 pm to top at top 6:05 am with Lhakpa Tshering and Jangbu (Jangbu to top 6:35 am), down to C2 2:30 pm to sleep 18th BC.

Apa climbed with this group, not as hired Sherpa, but as a member; at bottom of Hillary Step he went ahead and was on top before Magitsis and Lhakpa Tshering.

Oxygen: Magitsis from C3 to and in C4, from 8200m to top and down to C4; Jangbu resting an hour in C4 and from C4 to top to C4; Apa from C4 to top to C4.

Magitsis had planned to scale Lhotse also but Muraguchi reported stonefalling, a Greek friend had died in Kusum Kanguru and Magitsis did not think the Lhotse couloir would "be good for him" and had a tight schedule of more climbs before Olympics came.

Sherpa summiters:
Lhakpa Tshering, 17/7/76, Khumjung, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1, Lhotse X1
Jangbu, 28/4/59, Tapting, Everest X3
Apa, Feb 1962, Thami Og, Everest X13

  • 내부 원정 ID4609
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER04146
  • 대장Nikolaos Magitsis
  • 루트 (Route)S Col-SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8849m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 4명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Nikolaos MagitsisGreeceLeader성공사용-
Apa (Appa) SherpaNepalClimber성공사용-
Jangbu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Lhakpa Tshering/Chhiring SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-

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