원정 개요

Details of Climb by Mazur's spring 2004 Everest Expedition:

Four summit parties made bids for top and all put someone on top:

First summit party left C3 on 17th May at 10:00 pm (NST) and all reached summit at noon on 18th. They were members Mislow, Haines, Waters, Pitula, Lhakpa Temba Sherpa and Tibetans Nurbu Tsipe and Dorje Karsang. All returned to C3 for the night except the two Tibetans, who went down to C2.

Second summit party left C3 on the 19th at 11:00 pm, but only member and one Sherpa in the party actually summited (on the 20th). The others in the party were the brothers Andrew and Ian Prentice, Briggs, Drummond, Miller with Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa and Luda, a Tibetan. The weather that day was bad: wind and snowfall. Ian Prentice reached top of 3rd Step (8690m) alone at noon on the 20th, radioed to Mazur that he was afraid to go on up in such weather and asked whether he should go down instead; Mazur said he should, and Prentice went back to C3. Briggs had turned back at the 1st Step (8500m) at about 10:00 am with asthma attack. Drummond, who stumbled here and fallen slightly, turned back at the same point at about 11:00 am. Andrew Prentice and Miller turned around at 8450m. Prentice had been vomiting the day before and was a bit weak, Miller was uncomfortable wearing oxygen mask. Bredenkamp and Lhakpa Chiring went to the top at 2:30 pm despite the terrible weather. All in this party slept the night in C3.

Third Summit party left C3 at 1:00 am on the 27th. They were members Horvath and Meyer; Sherpas Jangbu, Ang Phuri, Gyaluk, Tshering Dorje, Tenzing (Thami) and Tenji, and Tibetans Yunden and Wangdu. All climbed fast and reached the summit at 7:00 am. The two members descended all the way to the ABC with three Sherpas and both Tibetans while three other Sherpas stayed at C3.

Fourth summit party left C3 at 11:15 pm on the 28th, and all except Spear reached the top in two groups on the 29th: Berg at 5:35 am with Tibetans Awang Norbu, Puba Tshering and Tashi Namgyal; Coster at 6:35 am with Sherpas Lhakpa Ongyal and Tenzing (Tumlingtar). All to ABC except Tenzing Ongyal, who stopped at C1. Spear turned back at 8400m.

Oxygen use by all summiters:

Members: Mislow in C1 all the way to top and down to ABC. Most others started on it in camp 2, half of them up from C2, and all from 8000m to C3, in C3 to top and down to C2; some even continued using it to ABC.

Sherpas: all from 8000m to top and down to C3, some to C2, a few even down to C1.
Tibetans: some in C3, all from C3 to top to C3.

There were a number of cases of sickness (much of which Ian Prentice thought was due to the team's having been delayed leaving KTM for Tibet because of a nationwide general strike in Nepal and therefore having taken a helicopter to the hydroelectric station not far below the border.

Those who became sick or frostbitten:
Bendixen went to no higher than ABC, got pulmonary edema, had no more
motivation, and left 4 May.
Bernier got chest infection.
Drummond got six toes frosbitten, but they will heal.
Haines got pulmonary edema but recovered and summited.
Hewson got cerebral edema at base camp, never went higher and left on 19 April.
Marshall became generally sick at base camp, never went higher, left on 22 April.
Miller got bad chest infection but recovered and summited.
Pitula also bad chest infection, later summited.
Waters got mild pulmonary edema, later summited.

There were no accidents except for Drummond's fall at the First Step, as mentioned above.

High points for non-summiting members:
Bendixen - ABC
Bernier - 7600m
Briggs - First Step (8500m)
Chatwin - C2, then left team a week early for family reasons
Drummond - First Step (8500m)
Hewson - base camp
Long - 7600m
Manning - 7600m
Marshall - base camp
Miller - 8450m
Morrison - C1, left with Chatwin
Nixon - C1
Andrew Prentice - 8450m
Ian Prentice - top of Third Step 8690m
Spear - 8400m
Spencer - C3
Stalter - 7600m

Sherpa summiters:
Lhakpa Temba (18th), 4/8/73, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, Everest X2
Lhakpa Chhiring (20th), 7/4/64, Lokhim, Solu, Everest
Jangbu (27th), 24/5/67, Patle, Okhaldhunga, 1st 8000er
Ang Phuri (27th), 27, Patle, 1st 8000er
Gyaluk (27th), 27, Patle, 1st 8000er
Tshering Dorje (27th), 25/10/74, Beding, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X3, Manaslu X1
Tenzing (27th), 22/8/54, Thami, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X1
Tenzing (27th), 1/6/82, Patle, 1st 8000er
Lhakpa Ongyal (29th), 19/8/66, Tumlingtar, Makalu X1, Manaslu X1
Tenzing (29th), 1/10/75, Tumlingtar, 1st 8000er

Tibetan summiters:
Nurbu Tsipe (18th), Tashi Tsawa village
Dorje Karsang (18th), old Tingri
Yunden (27th), Tingri
Wangdu (27th), Lhatse
Awang Norbu (29th), Nyalam
Puba Tshering (29th), Nyalam
Tashi Namgyal (29th), Tingri