원정 개요

C4 at South Col.

2nd summit attack team called back by leader because "lack of willingness" of Sherpas and to same extent other members on 23 Dec after 22nd success. C3 had strong snowstorm on 13th Dec and Heo, Ang Rita and 3 Sherpas had to descend in winds, called for rescue team to help them but no one hurt. In descent to S Summit, Heo on corniced ridge lost his footing and fell 15m on Tibet side. Ang Rita on rope arrested the fall and took 1/2 hr to return to route which heavily crevassed. On 22nd left C4, on top 14:20 and biv on 22nd at 22:00 hrs at 8600m without bivouac gear (had to craddle "each other" to stay awake). Only slight frostbite in only gentle wind. Heo used oxygen in C4 sleeping (2 ltr/min) and climbing above C4 and at biv (picked up discarded bottles). Ang Rita used none at all (Heo kept both sleeping masks and says Ang Rita did not use).

6 Jan 1988 - Heo confirms most above summit details - biv; fell 10m at cornice bottom of all gear steps. Ang Rita used no oxygen to his knowledge though could have while Heo slept. Heo's oxygen ran out when came back down to S Summit so none during biv. He has slight frostbite of both heels.

Leader: sent no more to try summit as safety precaution - summit reached and that enough.


Pheriche Doctor - 17 Dec 1987

S Korean Everest case of altitude illness. Ascended ex-Lukla much too rapidly and severe cerebral edema. Cared for at Pheriche and descended to Pangboche. When he got better he went back up to BC.