원정 개요

BC at Sabje Khola, last huts (too low, but high as porters would go)
Depot at shoulder (slept in only once)
Biv on NW Ridge
High point at biv site.

ABC was 2 tents and deposit of gear. Another deposit at shoulder (not really a ridge but permanent snow). Really not on NW Ridge but this is only route possible for survival. Tried alpine-style attempt from 5000m by 4 members to 5700m and stopped there with snow conditions "absolutely hopeless." On 24th April morning another heavy snowfall began and down to BC and climb finished. Severe avalanche and slab danger; went through dangerous serac couloir to reach high point, a dangerous part of climb forced by normally safer rock being covered by new loose snow. Route not difficult.