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Adventure Guides Chomolungma Expedition 2004

Everest · 2004 · 봄 (1) · Japan

원정 개요

ABC at 6400m all team and all climbing Sherpas
C1 at 7000m by Kondo, Ishii, Ota, Takahashi and Sherpas
C2 at 7800m by same members
C3 at 8200m by same members.

Started from C3 at 00:00 am (NST), summited at 10:47, stayed above 10-15 minutes,made pictures. Windy, snowing before them, was 1 Indian member. Came back to C3 at 8:55 pm. Mrs. Ota died when going down from 2nd Step. She used the fixed rope and slipped down 1m, maybe hit her head or more probably "enstranged" herself with the rope and had heart attack. Ota's crampon was trapped in a bunch of old fixed rope. On 22-23, the 3 Sherpas carried her body 12m lower and burried her. Their descent greatly delayed by Mrs Ota's fatal accident.

Kondo reached Ota in less than 1-2 minutes after the accident, but she was already dead. Other members reached only C2 and after. Knowing about the death of Mrs Ota abandoned the climb.

Sherpa summiters:
Chuwang Nima, 20/8/67 (or 4/5/67), Phurte, Everest X10, Cho Oyu X2
Ngima Nuru, 6/11/81, Thami, Everest X2
Pema Gyalzen, 20/10/69, Thami, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
Nima Nurbu, 20/2/80, Thami [added]

Kenji Kondo, leader of Everest teams on North Col route in Spring 2004 and 2006 - 23 May 2006.

Mrs Ota, Mr Takahashi and three Sherpas left C3 to climb to the summit at 11:30-12:00 pm (NST) on 19 May. Three members and the three Sherpas arrived at the summit at 10:30 am on the 20th. Mr Takahashi, Kondo and the three Sherpas returned to C3 at 7:00 pm or slightly later.

No one member or Sherpas from the expedition went again from C3 during the night of May 20 or before sunrise on the 21st. C3 was at 8200m.

  • 내부 원정 ID4597
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER04131
  • 대장Kenji Kondo
  • 루트 (Route)N Col-NE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8849m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 12명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Kenji KondoJapanLeader성공사용-
Hiroshi HanazakiJapanClimber---
Shinichi IshiiJapanClimber-사용-
Takeshi OgawaJapanClimber---
Yoshitomi OkuraJapanClimber---
Shoko OtaJapanClimber성공사용사망
Yasuko ShiraiwaJapanClimber---
Kazuo TakahashiJapanClimber성공사용-
Chhuwang Nima SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Ngima Nuru (Nima Nuru) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Nima Nurbu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pemba Gyalzen/Geljen SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-

출처·참고문헌

· 2004 · 잡지 (3) · CLIM