원정 개요

BC at normal Everest north site
ABC1 at east side of Rongbuk Glacier
ABC2 between crevasses near bottom of North Face
C1 on North Face
C2 on North Face
C3 on North Face
C4 on North Face on small rock ledge
C5 on North Face on small rock ledge.

2 ABCs because very far from BC to bottom of North Face. To ABC-2 not difficult but very dangerous from stones falling just below C1 in small couloir nearly vertical climb. From C1 to C2 not so steep but rock slabs and thin snow; same condition to C2 and C3. Climbed with very steep grey rock to yellow rock and C4 on small ledge. From C4 up yellow rock all at first also very steep for first 200m, then slope eases off to C4 also on small ledge. Above C4 very difficult technically because vertical rock crumbled and impossible to fix rope. Shabalin made only 50m altitude in one day using belay from C5; did not continue on this direct vertical line because too dangerous and would take at least 2 more days and to gain the next 50m, so now from C5 traversed to left 200m, then circled back around and above crumbling rock area to gain 100m vertical and to return to direct line above C5. From C5 to top not so difficult. In descent all down normal North Col routes. Abramov's North Col expedition left tent for this expedition at 8300m with food, gas oxygen, sleeping bags. This tent used only by 1st summit group who were very tired having fixed ropes below 8500m face and tried to make direct route above C5. 2nd and 3rd summit parties went down from summit to ABC except Volodine who continued to BC same day, 1 June.

Summit timings: 1st group left C5 7:00 am Chinese time (4:45 am NST), on top 10:00 am (7:45 am NST) and down to 8300m at 2:00 pm (11:45 am NST).
2nd group left C5 7:00 am, on top 9:15 am (7:00 am NST) and down to ABC 8:00 pm (5:45 NST).
3rd group left C5 7:00 am, on top 9:00 am (6:45 am NST) and down to ABC 1:45 pm and Volodin at 9:00 pm in BC. Shared ABC with Abramov expedition but on 1 June no room for 2 members, so Volodin had to go to BC.

Oxygen:
Sherpas none.
Members all from C3 to top all the way (except some did not use it for sleeping) to 8300m by some, for some oxygen ran out before descending to 8300m. In addition, oxygen not used by members fixing rope from C3 to C4 and at 8600m while fixing rope.