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Roche did not climb above North Col becausce of eye problem (small blood vessel broken).

Austrians later to C1 because of strong winds before and again very strong in first half of May. Decided not to have C3. 2 Austrians and 2 Sherpas left C2 at 11:00 pm NST for top and were on top 11:00 am (to C3 site in 1-1/2 hours).

No one had route above ridge; so waited for Focus expedition to catch up with them. Italian Focus team very slow, so Austrian's Sherpa took ropes from Italians and fixed it; Italians turned back while their rope finished at bottom Second Step at 6:00 am; Sherpa went down a little and moved rope up the step and used it to belay them. Were first from north side to top; back to C1 at about 6:00 pm and ABC 18 May and climb finished and left same day and helicopter from Tatopani.

Oxygen: Moichi from 7500m, in C2, and to top and down to C1; Klausmer from C2 to top to C2; both Sherpas from C2 to top to C2.