원정 개요

Skripko alone to C2 on 21st May; 21st to 26th, stayed in C2 waiting for better weather: every morning windy and snowfalling. 26th up to C3 and slept there but found tent had been stolen. Thamserku Trekking Sherpas sold him 3 oxygen bottles and Mazur Sherpas sold him tent. Mazur 3 Sherpas and 1 Tibetan left C3 together with Skripko; left C3 3:00 am Chinese Time (00:45 am NST ). All reached top at 10:30 am Chinese Time (08:15 NST) (only people from Tibetan side to top); no wind and clear sky but cold. Back to C3 because snowfalling now; Skripko to C3 3:00 pm; Sherpas, further in descent, arrived before him. 28th to ABC alone while Sherpas stayed C1 that night.

Skripko used oxygen from C2 to C3 and in C3 and to top and in C3 and back to North Col. Skripko and Zadokhin had climbed together there until Zadokhin left on about 7 May not feeling fit and well. They established ABC and C1 together. Bojoukov and Vasheniuk climbed together but spent much of their time down in BC (not even ABC). While Skripko was still on mountain, they went up from BC only twice: once to ABC and C1, the 2nd time to ABC using oxygen to 7500m then down to ABC same day (date Skripko doesn't remember). When Skripko left ABC to return to KTM, they were still in ABC with plan to try for top in June, but Chinese liaison officer told them they had to leave on 2 June because last expedition had left.

Bojoukov 10 June 2004: On 14 May Boujoukov and Vasheniuk climbed to 7500m; Vasheniuk went alone to 7700m, returned to 7500m on 16th May. They never went this high again and made no attempt to reach summit in June because of the liaison officer's orders.