원정 개요

BC at Rongbuk Glacier
C2 east of Lho La slightly
C3 slightly below shoulder
C4 on West Shoulder/Ridge
C5 on West Ridge
C6 in small couloir: 1st couloir east of W Ridge
High point at C6.

Sherpas little more first making route for Japanese members who wever never before in Himalayas including climbing leader. All members from Japanese army and most in mid or late 20's. Some 55-65 years old (65 years old to C2). Unable to go above C4 because too much snow brought avalanching. Along ridge climbers started avalanching and couloir was avalanching funnel. Big snowstorm approaching 17th Oct and all called down to C2 or below. Never went back up from C2 again because all high camps crushed and of no use. Schedule called for return to Japan 10th Nov.


Japanese Expedition to the Himalayas in 1987
China, Qomolangma (Mt. Everest 8848m)

The Defence Academy team led by Takashi Kawakami comprised 30 [29 without honorary leader Motoharu Arima] members, challenged this peak in autumn by the West Ridge via the Rongbuk Glacier. Their climbing leader, Masaoh Yokoyama (44), however, was killed on Sept 2 by an accident when he failed to jump over a stream running on the glacier between BC and C1 and bumped his head seriously against a stone. The team, in spite of this tragedy, continued their climbing, which was forced to abandon at the last third of Oct after they got to 8200m.


Rick Allen - 7 Nov 87

Japanese left BC just before Steve Van Meter; got to about 7500m on end of shoulder/start of ridge.

Allen thought their Sherpas had left Tibet.


Japanese Defense Academy

Cleared all camps and all to ABC 27th Oct; should reach KTM (Sherpas at least) about 5-8 Nov.
No more deaths.
Reached 8200m on West Ridge about 15 Oct. How many now known: about 1 Japanese and 3 Sherpas.


Jack Turner - 1 Oct 87

Lots of snow and wind 25,000 ft at shoulder.

Japanese established C4 at top of buttress to West Ridge. Hhad lost C3 in avalanche (was 1500 ft below shoulder at 15 Sept). 12-14 men shuttling to C4 and not badly affected by wind.
Total 42 Japanese and Sherpas.
Japanese climbing leader died while alone crossing East Rangbuk Glacier.


Japanese Expedition

29 Japanese
18 Sherpas
West Ridge route

Climbing leader died when he fell into East Rongbuk River the day after he killed a sheep despite ban on killing animals in area.

Lots of fixed rope, oxygen; other members mostly young men.