원정 개요

BC at CBC on 13th at 5900m
C1 at North Col
C2 at usual campsite.

Totev and Tendi Sherpa left C3 at 11:30 pm (NST) on 17th, summited at 08:30 am on 18th, stayed about 45 minutes, descended to C3 between 4-5 pm. Next day to C1. Weather was very good. About 10 people were on summit - 2 Indians, 2 British and Sherpas.

Boyanov and Hristov left C3 at midnight Chinese Time (9:45 NST) of 19th without oxygen. Boyanov summited at 9:20 am on 20th, stayed about 15-20 minutes descended to C3 at 3 pm; Hristov summited at 1 pm. Hristov did not return to lower camp. One of Brice Sherpas found his body right above the Second Step on May 22nd.

Petkov left C3 at 3 am on 20th, summited at 9:00 am with oxygen. Stayed on summit more than one hour waiting for somebody to help to snap his picture. His own camera had battery problem. He returned to C3 at 2:45 pm. At C3 started problem with his eyes (blindness). Boyanov and Petkov waited for Hristov, but he did not show up. On 21st Boyanov reported to expedition leader Savov over radio that Hristov is missing. Boyanov, on 21st went out searching Hristov up to 8500m - had to return to C3 due to bad weather. Also, Boyanov had to help Petkov who suffered from blindness to descend to lower camp; weather was not good on that day. Boyanov and Petkov descended to C1.

Oxygen used: Totev used oxygen from C2 7700m to summit and down to C2. Also used for sleep. Petkov used oxygen from C3 to summit and to C3, also for sleep. Tendi used oxygen from C3 to summit and back to C3. Boyanov and Hristov never used oxygen.

Other members: Miss Misheva went up to C2 on 8th, suffered from chest pain while at North Col on 15th, left for ABC. Leader Savov up to ABC. Expedition doctor up to ABC. Temelkov went up to 8400m on May 22, had to return C3 due to bad weather. Zhelyazkov went up to 8200m on 21st with Temelkov and Valtchev, started vomiting, then went down to C2. Valtchev went up to 8500m twice on May 22 and 30th. Valtchev returned to KTM on June 4 leaving on 10th (talked to him on June 4th over telephone).

The expedition members (8) returned to KTM on May 27 and to leave on 30th.

Sherpas:
Pasang Tendi Sherpa, 27/10/83, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, 1st 8000er,
now KTM Boudha, Mahankal, KTM, summit on May 18
Nima Nuru Sherpa, with his expedition up to 7000m