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Himalayan Guides Everest Expedition

Everest · 2004 · 봄 (1) · UK

원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 at West Cwm
C3 at Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

16th May summit party left C4 for top at 9:30 pm on 15th and to top: Mrs Todd at 7:00 am with Pasang Nuru (aka Ang Nuru); Jack 8:00 am with Pasang Dawa and Pasang Chhiri and Jen; Atkins between 9:30 and 10:00 am and all to C4 that night.

24th summit party C4 9:50 pm 23rd and Saunders, Oliver Burr, Gurmi Dorje on top 8:10 am of 24th; Deegan and Lhakpa Thundu at 9:00 am. All down to C4 from top at 9:15 am and got C4 about 1:30 pm and slept there.

2nd summit attempt had been made by all 24th summiters and Charles Burr left for top on 19 May at 9:30 pm and at 8500m below balcony at 2:00 am; strong wind and spindrift and down to C3 and C2.

Summit Sherpas:
Pasang Dawa, 18/1/77, Pangboche, Everest X4, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X3
Pasang Nuru, 11/2/66, Pangboche, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2
Gurmi Dorje, 23/7/76, Pangboche, Everest X2
Lhakpa Thundu, 20/5/70, Pangboche, Everest X1, Anna X1

Oxygen:
All members in all 3 summit bids from C3, to and in C4, to top to C4 and
in C4 if any left
All Sherpas from C4 to top to C4

Carr left about 20 April - no motivation.
Clemenson left 18 April - reason unknown, he just suddenly left.
Piper left about 20th April - not well.

  • 내부 원정 ID4570
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER04123
  • 대장Henry Todd
  • 루트 (Route)S Col-SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8849m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 18명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Henry Barclay ToddUKLeader---
Ian Edward (Ted) AtkinsUKClimber성공사용-
Charles Henry BurrUKClimber-사용-
Oliver James BurrUKClimber성공사용-
Mark CarrUKClimber---
Jean Robert ClemensonFranceClimber---
Paul Robert DeeganUKClimber성공사용-
Susan Harper ToddUKClimber성공사용-
Victoria (Vicky) JackUKClimber성공사용-
Robert Vincent (Bob) JenUSAClimber성공사용-
Simon PiperUKExp Doctor---
Anthony Victor (Vic) SaundersUKClimber성공사용-
John George WylieAustraliaClimber---
Gurmin Dorje (Girmi Dorje) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Lhakpa Thundu/Thudu (Tindu) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pasang Dawa (Pa Dawa, Pando) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pasang Nuru (Ang Nurbu/Nuru) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pasang Tshering (Ang Tshering) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-

출처·참고문헌

I'm on the Summit of EverestTodd, Susan · 2004 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
The Sky's the LimitMagnusson, Anna · 2004 · 단행본 (1) ·