원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col
High point on SE Ridge.

This expedition was a group of teams including American Snowbird expedition, 2-man USA expedition of Boyer and Rice, and several European climbers. European teams described below. See AAJ (1988) for descriptions of USA teams.

Progress went well till 25th Sep; was sometimes snow but no wind. 26th Sep 10 members slept in C3 for summit bid either from C3 or C4. 27th Sep dowm because fierce wind. Patscheider and Schlicher up from C3 night of 1-2 Oct for summit bid and got only to 8400m on 2nd Oct because deep snow on one side of ridge and terrible wind on left side. Schlicher and Patscheider to C2 on foot and again to S Col on 10th Oct. On 16th they went to 8200m and again turned back by wind but Patscheider tried to ski down Lhotse Face from Col; skies merged into snow and he fell and dislocated shoulder.

8 members left BC 14th. Doctor leaving 15th and (not counting Snowbird climbers and Rice) left on mountain only French team of Muller, de La Ferriere and Lang. Winds began on Sep 26th and continued strong.


Patscheider (via others) - 26 Aug 87

No oxygen, no Sherpas to Everest top with him.

Skis to South Col and if has luck with snow above Col will take skis to summit and down. First to Lhotse summit from face via Couloir then without return to BC picks up his skis left at Lhotse Face and to South Col where sleeps 1 night next day up Everest wtih skis on his back to ski down most of this distance too (if not all because of rock like Hillary Step).

Ski from Everest top to Cwm in same day, maybe 3 hours including rest at Col and again on Lhotse West Face. Will have come down via east side of Geneva Spur (but pillar and Spur). Max 45-degree slope.

Past ski descents: 55-60 degrees in Alps.
"Not problem about skiing, very good skier; but problem may be no breath on summit and not enough power to go down with skis from summit.

His skis 130 cm long, 7 cm wide (normal 180 cm for alpine skis in Europe). Shorter and lighter weight easier to carry, easier to swing; larger skis mean no control to slow and stop and go around rocks, etc. Hopes go only 20 km/hour. No practice skiing in Khumbu.

55% chance he will be able to ski from Everest summit; if only 50-50, stupid to try, but 51-49 average not stupid. He is quiet and undramatic.


European Everest after 14 Sept:
Muller - 8 Nov 87

13th Muller were in BC to ensure Schell didn't take all tents, etc away.
Went to C2, Muller and some Americans, about 16 Oct and back to BC 18 or 19 Oct in fear of bad weather.

Muller and party were first Europeans to reach C3 after bad weather but camp flat and ropes to and above C3 gone. Now always wind from north so decided to stop climb, Muller and Americans decided. Down to BC 28 Oct and left BC 30.

No yaks could reach BC, only to Gorak Shep, because of deep snow.

"It was the wind - we could reach summit at beginning of Oct but always windy windy."

No oxygen taken or used by Mullers.
No serious trauma amongst Europeans except Patscheider.
No one attempted to reached to reach Lhotse summit.