원정 개요

BC at normal site on moraine in middle of glacier below icefall
C1 slightly above NE Col
C2 on NE Ridge where ridge turns to right.

After BC established, a lot of snowfall while fixed rope in icefall and deposit set at 5500m. Also delayed two days for puja. On 11 May set temporary C3 at 7200m and next day moved to permanent C3. Arias and Herrera left C3 at 4:00 am and on top at 3:50 pm and down to C3 at 3:00 am of 15th; left top 4:75 pm, but saw Slovenian Mrs Stremfelj fall in [bad] snow-wind conditions because wind blowing away snow and leaving hard ice; at 7600m where this happened, this pair, to avoid falling too, roped together and secured themselves with ice axes in very slow descent. 15th slept few hours and Herrera to C2 to sleep while Arias to C1. 16th in BC and climb finished.

Leader Pujante had to leave expedition on 11 April to home and returned 12 May.