원정 개요

Intended to ski down from summit and carried his skis to his high point 7200m. Realized that night (22 Apr) he had severe pulmonary edema, so climb finished.

Made depot half very to C1 on 18Apr. 20 Apr reached C2 and made depot, back to C1 very tired, down for ABC, but so very tired made biv at about 5900m, slept an hour, difficulty breathing, 4-1/2 hours to descend to C1 (normally takes 1 hour) and called in weaker voice for doctor saying had pulmonary edema. Dutch doctor took him into his tent, put him on oxygen at 3:30-4:00 am, slept well woke at 8:00 am and Dutch Sherpas got 8 Tibetans to carry him on their backs (95 kg) to spot halfway between BC and ABC where Jeep picked him up and drove him to Zangmu.