원정 개요

2 nights in C3 (18th and 19th) - pinned down in camp because gale force winds and on 20th set out for top (Nieuwenhuys, Schreve and 3 Sherpas). Got 8020m below plateau, then tired and too alone and down to C2 (2 Sherpas to ABC). Members arrive ABC 21st. Pasang on top on 20th alone and saw Everest.

Started up again on 25th (Schreve stayed in ABC because of retinal hemmorrhage suddenly at ABC on 21st). Summit party in C1 on 25th, C2 on 26th, C3 on 27th and top 28th. Left C3 at midnight (NST) and on top 12:15 pm. Very cold night, -40 degrees 5:30 am. North top and saw Everest.

In ski descent, Nieuwenhuys skied from top; all across plateau, took off skies to 8000m in rocks. Now clouds came, they were exhausted (Ang Pemba and Hermann) so helped to C3, slept there and 29th skied from C3 to C2 and to 6800m. Skis back on at 6750m and skied to little below C1 to 6400m at end glacier. Were first team to arrive at mountain and asked next team, Spanish, to pay $50 per member and they did so and so did 25 other climbers.

Expedition doctor, Herman Frima, went to C1, spent rest of time in ABC.

Summit Sherpas:
Pasang Nuru, 17/3/73 (?), Kharikhola, summited Lhotse 20/5/03
Ang Pemba, 27/2/84, Bunbari, Jubing, 1rst 8000er