원정 개요

BC at usual site
C1 at traditional site (only dump; not slept in)
C2 still on moraine
C3 still on moraine (shared with Doug Scott)
C4 at North Col
C5 on NE Ridge
C6 on NE Ridge.

Snowstorm stuck 23rd Aug and end of first week of Sep. 2nd storm kept climbers immobilized for 2 weeks including avalanching. C4 pitched twice because wind of 27th Sep blew away tent and gear (also blew away tent at C3); 2nd time dug a cave.

Oct 10th Steven Strain, Jamieson and Ang Rita occupied C5. 11th stalled needing fuel. Jamieson and Ang Rita down to C3. 13th Strain at 5:30 am left C5 and reached just below First Step where wind picked him up and threw him down three times (got minor frostbite) so alone in C5 that night and on down. That ended climb. Strain couldn't have gone on much more anyway; not fully conscious.

12 members (11 USA, 1 Canadian) and 2 Sherpas.
Matous, Jamieson and 3 left BC 16th Oct.
One doctor left in early Sept with Spaniards because of stomach ulcer
Another doctor left BC 6 or 7th Oct - had had enough.