원정 개요

BC on moraine below glacier high site
C1 on east side of West Col
C2 at 6400m before start of SE Ridge.

On 19th April 5 members and 3 Sherpas left C2 for top 3:15 am. Banning moving very slowly due to altitude sickness (they realized later) and Price stopped him (later had to be evacuated with pulmonary edema). Pasang Gyalzen stayed with him at 6800m while others on up to high point.

Others not in summit bid because of bad chest infection; others stopped at 10:30 am because of difficult snow conditions and ahead was difficulty and getting too late; stopped at C2, but Banning's health getting worse, so at 4:00 pm from C2 to C1. 20th Banning evacuated by helicopter from BC. Climb finished. All members now too ill or too tired to try again and not much time left.

Gleave did no climbing; left after 2 days trek with viral infection.