원정 개요

BC at below normal site because normal site covered by big earth avalanche
Biv 1 at normal site
Biv 2 at normal site.

Dujmovits, Kaltenbrunner and Takeuchi arrived BC 21 May. 23rd up from BC towards C1 and now Korshunov joined them and reached C1 to sleep. 23rd Moro and Ubrubko to C2. 24th Dujmovits and 3 to C2 and spent night there with Moro and Ubrubko; after that snowfall. 25th Dujmovits, Kaltenbrunner, Takeuchi went up to 6300m fixing 150m in original French route (didn't go to Dutch Rib which doesn't exist any longer) and slept in C2. 25th Moro and Urubko down to BC while Korshunov stayed in C2. 26th all in C2 went to C3. 27th Dujmovits and 2 others left C4 at 5:00 am; Korshunov convinced route led up couloir to saddle between East and Middle Summit and went into couloir alone, while Dujmovits went on normal route towards Middle Summit but traversed face to highest summit; up south (150-180m high) couloir to top at 3:30 pm and back to C4 7:00 pm. Korshunov went to Middle Summit and to C4 at 6:00 pm, having realized his route was wrong to main summit.

28th Moro and Urubko to C3. 29th all down to C2 except Moro and Urubko who climbed to C4 and left C4 8:00 pm for night ascent in order to be descending in daylight to look for Boris who had been very slow descending and without a walkie-talkie. Urubko to top at 1:30 am 30th while Moro had turned back at about 7800m (with stomach touble and too cold) to C4. Denis joined Moro at 3:00 am. 6:00 am they went down to BC and so did all others. Most of climb was steep ice climbing. "Entire route very dangerous - I would never return."

Expedition had no fixed camps but moved their tents as they ascended and descended.

Abele Blanc had gone to BC before all other members, but left without doing any climbing because he saw how dangerous the route was.