한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

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\Annapurna South Face International Expedition

Annapurna I · 2004 · 봄 (1) · Poland

원정 개요

BC east of South Annapurna Glacier on grass
ABC on rocks also to S Face west of Glacier
C1 at beginning of S Face at foot of Bonington route
C2 at east of Bonington's ridge in crevasse.

After ABC, weather was foggy and snowfalling so delayed to get to C1. Again bad weather delayed progress; at C1 snow broke one tent completely and one tent partially. Technically difficult above C1 with 75-degree steepness in some sections. Stopped at 7350m at 5:00 pm because too late an hour to fix more rope; down to C2 to rest one day. Started up from C2 at 12:30 pm of 19th, big snowstorm from 2:00 to 7:00 am and went up only 100m from C2 and returned; section of avalanche hit C2 after they had gathered out of tent. Weather forecast bad for next few days so decided 20th May climb finished with avalanche danger now.

For me this line is safest on face "with lots of rock fall on Japanese route but not safe." Pustelnik wants to return to it.

Jozefowicz left expedition 9th May to return to work.

  • 내부 원정 ID4536
  • 원본 EXPIDANN104101
  • 대장Piotr Pustelnik
  • 루트 (Route)S Face (left of Bonington route)
  • 최고 도달고도7350m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 8명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Piotr Czeslaw PustelnikPolandLeader---
Sergei BogomolovRussiaClimber---
Martin GablikSlovakiaClimber---
Peter HamorSlovakiaClimber---
Pawel JozefowiczPolandClimber---
Aljosa MarlacSloveniaClimber---
Vladimir (Vlado) StrbaSlovakiaClimber---
Dariusz Jerzy ZaluskiPolandClimber---

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