원정 개요

Biv 1 at 5200m at start of glacier at foot of West Face
Biv 2 on West Face.
High point on West Face.

First climbed Island Peak, then trekked to Pangboche. On 6th May west from Pangboche to 1st bivouac. Browns's Sherpa Dendi said he had been on Ama Dablam with Koreans in 1996 and he knew the normal route (Korean '96 team was on SW Ridge) which he would now show him how the route went. Low-lying clouds prevent their seeing the mountain wall and Bryce relied on Dendi's assurance that they were climbing the normal route when actually, they were on the West Face. On 8th May they were hit at 5750m by small avalanche of mixed snow, rock and ice: Dendi was hit by large rock on his cheek and Brown by another large rock on his right shoulder. Clouds had prevented their seeing avalanche coming and from seeing the huge serac that overhangs the West Face. Dendi had difficulty eating because of his injured cheek so down to Pangboche. Now Brown was having stomach trouble and was too sick to go up again. They rested for several days at Pangboche and several more at Namche, so reached Lukla airfield only on 13th May.

Sherpa:
Dendi Sherpa, Apr-May 1970, Pike, Okhaldhunga