원정 개요

BC at Rongbuk, 300m above 1924 British
C1 at bottom of North Face
C2 on North Face
C3 in cave
C4 at bottom of Hornbein Couloir
High point at North Face-West Ridge.

15 days bad weather after C1 pitched brought lot of avalanching and leader, 1 member and Ang Rita hit by snow avalanche.

1st summit bid on 22 Aug with Sherpas, but trouble with Sherpas and Ang Phurba fired; [Fraga and Ramos] got to [above] C4 then dangerously heavy snowfall and down without going higher. 2nd attempt only to C1 again Sherpa trouble. 3rd attempt on 2 Sept reached West Ridge, but too deep snow; tried another way but still deep snow. Fraga reached 8400m and Barcenas to 8100m then down with health problems while other 2 got to 8700m; had left ABC 30 Aug and tried for atop from C4. Climb finished now because no strong men left. 3rd attempt without Sherpas because no fixed rope above C3 (had not expected to needed so much; put in 2000m of rope and this not enough).

Barcenas tried to parachute from slightly above North Col, but air not moving in right direction, so skied from Col under Changtse to C1 on 21 Aug (skis 150 cm long).

Pierre Beghin joined expedition in early Aug after C3 pitched; he was not expected by Spaniards, but after he came and they talked he joined their effort.