원정 개요

Down to Pangboche to recover from stomach trouble and 14th Pangboche to C1. At yellow tower on 16th Hayes had to rescue his Sherpa Ang Thili (summited Makalu and Cho Oyu but getting old and no strength and technique not good enough). Hayes abseilled down to him and took his backpack and at this time he dropped his tent, so had to go to BC to get another tent. Hayes missed route coming down in bad cloud cover and slept out that night (Ang Thile had gotten to BC). 17th Hayes in BC.

18th to Thyangboche to telephone KTM to ask if he could use Boersma's Lhakpa Wangdi Sherpa and Martherson agreed. 19th BC to C2. 20th Hayes wanted to rest in C2: was perfect weather. 21st C2 to top and back to C2; were only people high on mountain. 22nd C2 to BC.

C2 to top is good long day of sustained climbing requiring constant concentration; took 12 hours C2 to top because Hayes lost an hour after a slip and difficulty returning to climbing; 5 hours top to C2 on summit day because cold and cloudy in descent.

Had planned to go to Pumori but time running out.