원정 개요

BC at 4880m at Labse Khola
C1 at 5400m on moraine near small lake
C2 at 5650m on col between Jomson Peak and Thansunjiti

From Hongde east via Marshyangdi River to Koto village, north to Phu Khola, Nargaon, to Labse Khola, where pitched BC much too far from Amotsang. Intended to attempt Amotsang via its West Ridge but never got on to mountain. From BC went north near Labse Khola then east to C1 NNE of point 5482 on HMG's Damodar Himal Map. From C1 all members and both "Sherpas" on 2 Nov went south and climbed Thansunjiti, 6107m (HMG map says 6084m), via its short west flank to North Ridge, in an easy climb on snow; left C1 at 8:00 am, on top at 1:30 pm and returned to C1 at 3:30 pm.

3rd Nov De Varax, Exbrayat, Gaume, Grobel, Rouge and Mingma Temba went south to Jomsom La, the col between Jomsom and Thansunjiti where pitched C2. On 4 Nov they went to Jomsom Peak, 6107m (map says 6335m), via a rock ridge leading to point 6120m, traversed under this summit onto Jomsom's West Ridge; they had left C2 at 5:00 am and climbed up West Ridge, which was mixed rock and snow, the snow covered section 40-45 degree steep, and at 11:30 am all except Rouge reached Jomsom summit at 11:30; Rouge turned back at 5900m with headache and returned to BC. Summiters returned to C2 at 3:30 pm and BC next day.

Meanwhile Chavy, Jacquet, Martin and Ratna Man Lama left BC on 4 Nov, to search for the best BC site for climbing Amotsang. With one bivouac at Labse Khola at about 4600m and another biv at 5000m on 5th Nov, they went around southern side of Amotsang and north to its east side; decided best approach would be directly from Phugaon to Amotsang's east side. They went to Phugaon and Koto, and climbing party of 5 members and Mingma Temba met them at Koto on 9 Nov, having left BC on 6th.

Thansunjiti summited on 2 Nov by Chavy, De Varax, Exbrayat, Gaume, Grobel, Jacquet, Martin, Rouge, Ratna Lama and Mingma Temba Sherpa.

Jomson top summited on 4 Nov by De Varax, Exbrayat, Gaume, Grobel and Mingma Temba (from Makalu area).