원정 개요

LBC at 16,800 ft end of rock
ABC at 5600m at Central Rongbuk Glacier
C1 at 6200m at head of Rongbuk Glacier at base of N Face
C2 at 6770m below the North Col (route has now gone towards Changtse)
C3 at base of Great Couloir
C4 just below yellow band next to Australian's 1984 campsite.

Route from C2 all fixed: 10,500 ft of rope fixed batween C2 and C4 for load carrying and later snowfalls brought avalanches. Route from C1 to shoulder of Changtse's S Face, exactly same route of 1982 US expedition.

4 summit attempts above C4; ran into difficulties and fixed 300m of rope above C4 on yellow band and grey band where hard rock (these rock bands had never been climbed before in spring_. Climbed yellow band and grey band to top of Great Couloir and then traversed across summit snowfield to W Ridge at 8750m; had used up all fixed rope by time had topped bands and when on 2nd summit bid [on 21 May by Simonson and Viesturs] needed more rope on W Ridge, had to retreat after having gone up only 25-30 ft [above ?] [Simonson to 8750m, Viesturs to 8720m]. Simonson was on oxygen but Viesturs had chosen not to.

On 1st attempt [by Dunn and Wilson on 16 May] fixed yellow band, but ran into more problems than expected here [both to c8400m].

27th May Dunn and Wilson made 3rd attempt, but Dunn got sick (blacking out) and descended from C4.

4th attempt by Allsup, Ann Smith, Nuru and Pasang Tshering still in progress on 28th when Simonson who doubts they got above C4. Last summit push was on 29th May and turned back at c25,500 ft [7770m]; then Smith got sick and party gave up: Allsup, Pasang Tshering and Nuru were also in this party. Now climb over.

Member's early departure from Everest expedition spring 1987:
Baumeister (expedition's doctor) left about 25 March; thought he had
pneumonia and did not go above low BC.
Allison left 2 April; got to ABC and then developed altitude problems.
Breashears left 28 April after having finished his photography.
East as arranged in advance, arrived late (5 April) and left early (12 May)
because of business; got to C2.
Van Hoy left 27 May to arrange bus transport and have airline bookings confirmed.
Nobori left 28 May with Simonson, tired.


David Breashears - 30 April 1987
(David left BC 28 April)

Americans on Everest:

ABC very low: 18,500 ft. Abandoned BC by and large with only Chinese there.

LO said fixed rope to 7900m C1, C2 and C3 had been established and stocked at about 19,500, 21,000 or 22,000 and 24,000-25,000 feet.

Craig to BC in mid-April with tooth problem.
Bob Allison left due to fatigue (not really a climber, went to ABC)
Baumeister (doctor) never above BC, went home.