원정 개요

Maoist at Sedua exhausted Rs 5000 per foreigner, Sherpa Rs 1500, cook Rs 500 and porters Rs 50.

BC at 4400m Barun River on Oct 15
C1 at 5000m below start of NE Ridge (just below it) on Oct 17
xxx at 5000m by all 3 members

Biv at 4900m west of unnamed Peak 5822m on Oct 21
C1 at 5170m in glacier basin to west of Peak 5822m on Oct 22
Peak 5822 summit on Oct 23

From BC tried 2 ways to get to C1 but couloir led to vertical rocks; another gully for the west but at 5000m got into cloud with no visibility so turned back without knowing whether this way was possible. On 3rd try found flat spot next to NE Ridge. Wanted now to climb East Face to North Ridge at 6000m but dangerous: icefall south of NE Ridge and in area seracs falling often and steep technical rocks climbing in long sections and back to BC.

On 19th split into 2 parties: Hogedal and Ostergaard went back to C1 looking for options on East Face but found none, so took down C1 and returned to BC. Ortmann and Pemba Sherpa went up SE Ridge of Peak 4 to 5000m to look at NW Ridge of Peak 6 and saw nightmare of very unstable ice with frequent avalanching so back to BC.

Concluded NE Ridge was only safe route but difficult one and abandoned climb of Peak 6 and went to a mountain south of Peak 5 and climbed this 5822m unnamed peak; camped at 4000m on 21 Oct west of this mountain 22 Oct. Went into glacier basin at 5170m. 23 Oct found way around many crevasses and glacial labyrinth in basin to pass at 5600m North Ridge of Peak 5822m and then to top via this steep snow and ice ridge to top of Peak 5822m; snow camp and went towards BC but weather turned bad with snowfall and poor visibility, got lost for hours and finally reached original BC (4400m) at 7:00 pm.