원정 개요

16 Nov team down to Thami because Bullock developed stomach problem. 17th to Namche to rest. 20th Powell left team to return home while Cartwright and Bullock to Thami, 21st to to Thengpo, 22nd back to NW Ridge on same route and in 11 hours to 5400m in very strong wind which was loosening rocks on face with lots of rock fall, spindrift. BC at Thengpa village.

C1 on NW Face on right side of North Pillar
1st biv 5400m NW Face (high point via the first line)
2nd biv at 4300m bottom of NW Face on left side of North Pillar
3rd biv at 6350m top of NE Face on East Ridge.

Avalanches and pieces falling continously. Stayed at 5400m hoping wind would drop, but it didn't, so spent 23rd pitching holes made by rocks. 24th decided had enough of being bombarded and we both wanted to live, so we ran away to Thami. 25th to Namche and left Khumbu (returned to KTM 27 Nov) while Bullock stayed at Thami.

On 26th Bullock returned to mountain for NW Face on left side of North Pillar and bivouacked at 4300m beyond Ribug hamlet (before Thengpo). 27th Bullock started up at 1:30 am "steadily plugging uphill" and reached 150m below top (i.e., 6350m in 13 hours at 2:30 pm;: now extremely cold and had to stop frequently to warm his hands to prevent frostbite; got onto East Ridge having scaled NE Face at 6350m; bived here for the night. 28th had a look at final 250m to climbing East Ridge and was steep and badly crevassed and "I wasn't going into the middle of that lot and have it crumbling around me and die" without anyone else to hold the rope and belay him, so decided not to attempt climbing it and descended a more direct time than had ascended and went down to 4300m biv site in 6 hours with 2 ropes and rest down climbing and on down to Thami for night and next night at Namche.

Last 800m of face up to East Ridge was 90 degrees in few parts, rest 75-80 degrees and 75 percent snow ice and rest in mixed rock and snow (snow ice).