원정 개요

BC at 5150m at Rongbuk (classical area - normal site today)
C1 at 5400m at Rongbuk Glacier
C2 at 6800m at Rongbuk Glacier
C3.ABC at 6400m at Rongbuk Glacier, highest yak point in bad spot
(not well protected from wind naturally)
C4 early April at 7000m at North Col
C5 at 7500m on N Ridge
C6 at 8000m at Great Col
High point at top of yellow band and onto snowfield.

Route attempted was same as that of Reinhold Messner in 1980 via the North Col, North Face and Great Couloir. But the Swedes failure to get much above the yellow band was due, according to a member, Hans Lagerhorn, to three mistakes: (1) ABC should have been placed on a site better protected from the winds, which blew it away in mid-May; (2) C6 should not have been pitched at only 8000m, but at 8150m, where team had originally planned to put it, but the first summit-attack team did not have the strength to get it so high -- they should not have done all the lead climbing, but one of their members, Lars Cronlund, did reach the expedition's highest point; and (3) the second summit team had enough manpower and time to move the camp higher but failed to do so.

Made rapid progress to N Col. Then C5 only in mid-May because of winds and very cold. ABC completely blown away in 1st half May and had to retreat. 1st summit attempt on 21st; had traversed from C5 to Great Couloir as per Messner route to C6. On 21st reached 8650m by Gronland who started up with Americans and he turned back because oxygen ran out; had done lead climbing on rock band and turned up his flow of oxygen; back to C6 and next day down to N Col and lower.

2nd and last summit bid by Malmsten and Tenzing Sherpa, who started from C6 on 23 May, day after 30cm new snow and windy: at 2am left camp and in knee-deep loose snow gained 300 vertical meters in 9 hrs, so at 11 am stopped and rested long time. Knew before they started up it was known theirs would be last attempt because would take another week to get more oxygen and other supplies up. Yaks and trucks are arriving at BC. In descent moved very slowly, trying to take down too much gear.

1 member spent entire night pacing back and forth till collapsed in morning and lay under rock; very luckily Sirdar Nawang saw him collapse and he could be found and brought down with no frostbite at all. Tenzing had made biv and got frostbitten fingers which will heal.

Degerfel used special wing-type parachute from N Col to almost ABC on 22 May. Expedition failed to reach summit because of 3 mistakes:

1. ABC should have been placed in better protected site.
2. C4 should have been placed at 8150m as planned but did not have strength.
1st team should not have done all lead climbing.
3. 2nd summit team had manpower and time to move it up but did not do so.
Higher C6 could have meant summit success.

Only 2 days of really good weather with negligible wind and clear skies.

Two Sherpas got mild frostbite and then stayed at BC. Only 4 Sherpas available for high climbing because of this and illness.


David Breashears - 30 Apr 1987
Swedes on Everest

Made normal steady progress to N Col. David was with 1st team to Col late March using Chilean fixed ropes all way to Col.

All then descended, leaving some members at ABC and rest to BC puja on auspicious day, 2 or 3 April.

Early April high winds 4-5 days. At ABC destroyed 2-3 several tents and both tents at Col. ABC collapsed and all from Col and ABC down.

BC - 5150m (site of US hang-glider team: east side of glacier)
C1 - old British C1 - 5300m
C2 - lost autumn's yak camp - 5800m
C3 - 6000-6000m - used by yak herder and members
ABC - 6300-6400m
C4 - 7000m, 10m below Col on leeward side

On 24 April tried to go to C5 and got to 7300-7400m and then turned back by high winds and col. Are going over to Great Col at about 7900m.

Plan:
C6 at 8000-8100m
C5 at 7600-7700m

As of 27 April Breashears had high point on mountain 7750m; last American's C5 on 21 or 22 April.

So on 27 Apr all Sherpas had moved to Col and 3-4 members at col to fix route to C5 and stocking it (with supplies from US C5).

Several members cracked ribs from cough.