원정 개요

BC at 5400m at Bhatchk Glacier
C1 at 5700m at moraines on edge of glacier

Were 2 icefalls on route right above C1 and lesser one just before Col at 6042m; lower icefall started at 5750m with many crevasses which were hidden by snow blown into them by daily afternoon winds. Left C1 at 6:30 am and on top at 2:30 pm; slow progress carefully picking way up it; 1-1/2 inch crust on soft very deep snow and just below top steepness up to 70-75 degrees last 100 vertical feet; back to C1 5:30 pm. Frush fell into crevasse up to his chest but crawled out of it unharmed. Beautiful but cold (20 degrees F) weather. Slept in C1 15th and BC 16th. Walked out via Besisahar.

Route was same as Japanese summer 2002; Japanese reached Col (6042m) only.