원정 개요

BC at 4000m at Saipal village which is stone hut only
Biv at 5100m foot of East Ridge of point 6600m
Biv at 5800m below col at 6142m on N-S Ridge of Raksha Urai.

On arrival at Chainpur had to stay 2 days there: for their sirdar and a Sherpa to go down valley to meet Maoists (who would not have let team pass if they had been Americans, British or Japanese and who demanded cash). Left Chainpur 2 Oct and up Seti Khola past Gomphu to "Saipal" BC due East of Raksha Urai.

Team split into 2 parties since after delays arriving at BC had only 10 days for climbing. One group east to Korko 6053m (Guais, Hubaud, Bastard do Crisnay, Gamby and sirdar) to see north side of Korko, for which also had climbing permit, and to acclimatize and returned to BC. Meanwhile other members Clere, Coulaud and Faroux to Raksha Tal (lake) west-northwest of BC and then went northwest to see point 6420m of Raksha Urai. All back to BC on 12 Oct.

Clere, Coulaud and Faroux wanted to climb point 6420m, but too technical so changed objective to point 6600m north of point 6420m on Raksha Urai's north-south ridge. Clere, Coulaud, Faroux and sirdar Keshab Raj Gurung (Ashe) left BC 13 Oct and bived at 5100m at bottom of East Ridge; 14 Oct to biv at 5800m below col at 6142m. 15 Oct 4:30 am left biv, climbed to col up 45-degree snow slope and turned north on South Ridge of point 6600m. Ridge mostly snow with many small cornices and small loose rocks (which had to be tossed) and one short, steep last part which is broader than rocky section and then several false summits, 200-300m total length. On top at 12:00 noon (all 3 French and Gurung) and stayed 30 minutes, left Nepal and Tibetan flags and prayer flags. Then down ascent route; five hundred meters before col Faroux and Gurung were in lead: those behind couldn't see them and when they reached a section of ridge where could see whole ridge 400m down onto glacier, one body spotted, but couldn't get to it because slope too steep and were tired. Saw two tracks on snow. Returned to 5800m biv 5:00 pm and slept there. 16 Oct returned to BC at 3:00-4:00 pm. Climb finished.

The other party meanwhile had gone to Chaurapani point 5581m via its north ridge to 200m below top.

Pt 6420m = Raksha Urai II by this expedition's designation.
Pt 6600m, north of II = Raksha Urai III
Raksha Urai I is peak south of II
Dhaulagari is next peak south of I.